Correlation between rheological properties and capillary fixation for modelling creams

The Brazilian male beauty market occupies the second place in world consumption of cosmetics. Among the numerous products consumed by such audience is the capillary fixation mask, which is mainly composed by fixatives. These additives act on stabilizing the cosmetic emulsion, protecting the hair against moisture and also increasing the intensity of hair fixation. In this work, three formulations for modelling creams were prepared by different concentrations of the fixatives StylezeTM W20 and PVP K90 and their properties characterized by physicochemical, rheological and sensory analysis. The capillary masks produced were stable oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions with uniform droplets of 2.05-2.82 µm sizes and pseudoplastic thixotropic behavior (0.19 < n < 0.26). It was possible to correlate the increased concentration of PVP K90 to a greater thixotropy and an improved yarn fixation, despite the worsening in the spreadability of the formulations. These results suggest properly conducted rheological measurements can contribute to the prediction of the emulsion's sensory properties, which can save time and funds on the development of new cosmetics

Green tea glycolic extract-loaded liquid crystal systems: development, characterization and microbiological control

ABSTRACT Liquid crystal systems (LCSs) have interesting cosmetic applications because of their ability to increase the therapeutic efficiency and solubility of active ingredients. The aim of the present research was to develop green tea glycolic extract-loaded LCSs, to characterize and to perform microbiological control. The ternary phase diagram was constructed using polysorbate 20, silicone glycol copolymer (SGC) - DC 193(r), and distilled water with 1.5% glycolic green tea extract. The systems were characterized by polarized light microscopy. Formulations selected were characterized as transparent viscous systems and transparent liquid system indicated mesophases lamellar structure. The results of the microbiological analysis of mesophilic aerobic microorganisms (bacteria and fungi) revealed that the above formulation showed a biologic load <10 CFU/mL in all samples. In conclusion, liquid crystalline systems that have presented formation of a lamellar mesophases were developed. Furthermore, the formulation and products tested presented the adequate microbiological quality in accordance with official recommendations.

Análise microbiológica de xampus e cremes condicionadores para uso infantil / Microbiological Analysis of Children?s Shampoos and Conditioners

O Brasil é um dos maiores mercados mundiais consumidores de cosméticos infantis. A utilização de produtos de higiene pessoal, como xampus, condicionadores e sabonetes infantis, e de produtos de beleza já se incorporou ao dia a dia de muitas crianças. Deste modo, é imprescindível que esses produtos estejam em consonância com os limites microbianos estabelecidos pela Farmacopeia Brasileira (2010) e pela Resolução da Diretoria Colegiada/ANVISA No 481/99 para serem comercializados. Neste trabalho, foi avaliada a qualidade microbiológica de amostras de 10 xampus e 10 cremes condicionadores de cabelos destinados à higiene infantil. Dentre as amostras analisadas, verificou-se que, em 50% dos xampus e 30% dos cremes condicionadores capilares, houve proliferação de micro- organismos, tais como bactérias aeróbias e fungos, acima dos limites máximos permitidos. Embora não se tenha encontrado micro-organismos patogênicos, essas percentagens indicam a necessidade do cumprimento das Boas Práticas de Fabricação por parte das indústrias farmacêuticas e cosméticas, para que os consumidores possam adquirir produtos confiáveis, com qualidade adequada para manutenção da saúde e do bem-estar.(AU)

Brazil is one of the largest commercial markets for children?s cosmetics. Personal-care products such as shampoos, conditioners and soaps for infants use, as well as beauty products are used daily by many children. Therefore, it is essential that these products are within microbial limits established by the most recent Brazilian Pharmacopoeia and the Brazilian Health Surveillance Agency Collegiate Board of Directors Resolution No 481/99. This study evaluated the microbiological quality of samples of 10 shampoos and 10 conditioners intended for infant hygiene. Of the samples analyzed, 50% of shampoos and 30% of conditioners showed microbial growth, such as aerobic bacteria and molds/yeasts, over the limits allowed. Although pathogenic micro- organisms were not found, these proportions indicate the need for pharmaceutical and cosmetic companies and businesses to comply with Good Manufacturing Practices, so that consumers are able to purchase reliable products with appropriate quality to maintain their health and well-being.(AU)

Physical and physicochemical stability evaluation of cosmetic formulations containing soybean extract fermented by Bifidobacterium animalis / Avaliação da estabilidade física e físico-química de formulações cosméticas contendo extrato de soja fermentado por Bifidobacterium animalis

Peel off facial masks, based on polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), are formulations that, after application and drying, form an occlusive film over the face. After removing, they provide cleanness, tensor and moisturizing effects, removing dead cells, residues and other materials deposited on the stratum corneous. The soybean extract fermented by Bifidobacterium animalis has sugars, amino acids, peptides, proteins and free isoflavonoids in high concentrations, when compared to the unfermented extract, providing benefits to the cosmetic formulations like anti-aging effect, moisture, tensor action and emollience. The cosmetic bases of peel off facial masks, added with 5.0 percent w/w of fermented soybean extract, were submitted to Preliminary and Accelerated Stability Studies. Eight (8) preparations were evaluated in several conditions of temperature (-10.0, 5.0, 22.0 and 45.0 ºC) and time (maximum of 15 days), comparing the results with the initial condition (48 h after preparation). The variables observed were: organoleptic characteristics, pH and appearing viscosity value and film drying time. The preparation containing 17.0 percent w/w of PVA and 0.5 percent w/w of guar gum was selected between the eight preparations initially prepared, because it presented the best performance in the stability test, being recommended storage at low temperatures (5.0 ºC).

As máscaras faciais peel off a base de álcool polivinílico (PVA) são formulações que, após a aplicação e secagem, formam um filme oclusivo sobre a face e, após sua remoção, conferem limpeza, ação tensora e hidratação à pele, retirando células mortas do estrato córneo, resíduos e outros materiais depositados. O extrato de soja fermentado por Bifidobacterium animalis possui açúcares, aminoácidos, peptídeos, e alto teor de isoflavonas na forma livre, quando comparado ao leite não fermentado, propiciando benefícios às formulações cosméticas, como ação antienvelhecimento, hidratação, efeito tensor e emoliência. As bases cosméticas de máscaras faciais peel off, acrescidas de extrato de soja fermentado 5,0 por cento p/p, foram submetidas aos ensaios de Estabilidade Preliminar e Acelerada, avaliando-se 8 preparações em diversas condições de temperatura (-10,0; 5,0; 22,0 e 45,0 ºC) e tempo (máximo de 15 dias), em relação à condição inicial (48 h após o preparo). As variáveis observadas envolveram: características organolépticas, valor de pH, viscosidade aparente e tempo de secagem do filme. A preparação contendo 17,0 por cento p/p de PVA e 0,5 por cento p/p de goma guar foi a selecionada dentre as oito preparações elaboradas inicialmente, por ter apresentado melhor desempenho no teste de estabilidade, sendo recomendado o armazenamento em temperatura reduzida (5,0 ºC).